perfume
STABILITY
STABILITY: is a perfume's resistance to the harmful effects of light and oxygen. In proper storage (protected from light at room temperature, closed bottle) perfumes keep an average of six months without deterioration. Many keep for a much longer period.
SUBSTANTIVITY
SUBSTANTIVITY: The lasting properties of a fragrance are dependent on its degree of volatility. Heavy, nonvolatile substances are used for the fixing of perfume compositions.
ROUNDING-OFF
ROUNDING-OFF: means harmonizing and binding together the principal ingredients of a perfume, either with odorants that are closely related odor-wise, or with other adjuncts that also fit into the picture and can therefore help to produce a balanced, harmonious whole.
SENSUAL
SENSUAL: is the term for a perfume with an erotically-stimulating effect. An accentuated portion of animalic components and exotic blossom notes is usually to be found in such perfumes. Properly used, many perfumes can produce pleasant emotions and moods, since the sense of smell is directly connected with the part of the brain in which feelings and sexual behavior are controlled.
SOUR
SOUR: A perfume is said to smell sour when it has aged prematurely owing to inappropriate storage. When this happens, chemical alterations occur which are irreversible, and the perfume must be considered "off."
MOSSY
MOSSY: odors of different kinds of tree mosses (especially oak moss) play an important part in nearly all perfume types. They are of special significance in the chypre notes. Mossy nuances are very complex and can have, besides the basic moss element, algae-like, leathery, woody and other characteristics.
Their especially good fixing qualities, as well as their ability to give fragrances substance and depth, make them indispensable.
NARCOTIC
NARCOTIC: perfumes often contain high percentages of heavy blossom fragrances (jasmine, tuberose, for example), and animalic components. The narcotic effect of natural flower scents is at its peak at the time when they fade. Careful dosing of "narcotic" components is necessary if a perfume is not to have an obtrusive or tiring effect.
MATURITY
MATURITY: A perfume must mature for four to eight weeks, before it can go on sale. This time is necessary to allow the individual ingredients to blend, bringing the fragrance to its full development.
MASCULINE
MASCULINE: as well as feminine, in the perfume sense, are subjective fragrance impressions. Normally, the term "masculine" is applied to fragrance favored by men. These contain dry notes of tobacco, spices, mosses and woods. They are generally less floral than feminine perfumes, and often contain a high percentage of fresh ingredients.
In the past few years, masculine and feminine notes have come closer and closer together.
LIGHT
LIGHT: perfume notes owe their character mainly to fresh, citrus, floral, fruity and green components. They contain practically no sweet, balsamic or sultry elements. It used to be difficult, but today, the perfumer has the means to give good fixation also to perfumes of light character.
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